Naples Travel Guide: Three Days in Italy's Most Divisive City

Where to stay, what to do, and whether Naples deserves a place on your Italy itinerary.

If there's one city in Italy that sparks strong opinions, it's Naples. Before my trip, nearly everyone I spoke with either loved it or couldn't wait to leave. After spending three days there, I can honestly say I understand both perspectives.

Naples was unlike anywhere else I visited during my three months traveling through Europe. It was loud, chaotic, gritty, and at times completely overwhelming. It was also my gateway to some of my favorite experiences in southern Italy, including day trips to Procida and the Amalfi Coast, along with some excellent gluten-free pizza.

To be fair, I didn't spend as much time exploring Naples itself as I had planned. I had booked a walking tour for my first morning (a strategy I always recommend when visiting a new city), but it was canceled at the last minute. Instead, I found myself staying close to my hotel near the train station and ferry terminal, an area that isn't exactly the best introduction to Naples.

I also couldn't help but wonder if my timing played a role. I had arrived directly from Venice, a city that completely captivated me. Comparing anywhere to Venice is probably unfair.

By the time I boarded my train to Salerno a few days later, I was emotionally drained. The experience of navigating Naples Centrale was one of the most stressful moments of my entire trip, and I remember texting my boyfriend with tears in my eyes, "I can't wait to leave Naples, and I'm never coming back."

Looking back, though, I realize that first impressions don't tell the whole story. While Naples itself challenged me, it also served as the perfect base for exploring some incredible destinations nearby. And despite the rocky start and exit, I'd return. But I would return with different expectations and a better understanding of what makes Naples such a fascinating, unforgettable city.

In this guide, I share where I stayed, how I spent my time, my day trips to Procida Island and the Amalfi Coast, and my favorite gluten-free dining experiences in Naples.

Some links in this post may be affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book through them—at no additional cost to you. I only share places and services I personally used or genuinely enjoyed during my trip. Read the full disclosure policy.

Arriving in Naples, Italy

Not all of my travel guides include an "Arriving In" section, but Naples earned one.

Before arriving, I had read that Italian train conductors could be a bit... assertive. My train from Venice to Naples confirmed that stereotype.

I was traveling with a Eurail Pass and had already activated it before boarding, as required. When the conductor first checked my ticket and seat reservation, everything was fine.

About an hour later, he returned and asked to see my ticket again. As I opened the Eurail app, I accidentally tapped the activation toggle, briefly deactivating my pass before immediately switching it back on. Unfortunately, he saw it happen.

He insisted I hadn't activated my pass before boarding and began explaining that I could be fined €50. I tried to explain that he had already checked my ticket earlier in the journey, but he denied it. The passenger sitting next to me spoke very little English and hadn't been there for the first ticket check, so he couldn't help.

Thankfully, after a few tense minutes, the conductor seemed to realize it had been an honest mistake and let me off with a stern lecture instead of a fine.

That was my introduction to Naples. Things only became more interesting from there.

As I've mentioned in several of my travel guides, I almost always walk from the train station to my accommodations whenever it's practical. According to Google Maps, my B&B was only about a 10-minute walk from Napoli Centrale, so despite carrying nearly 75 pounds of luggage, I figured it would be an easy walk.

Throughout my trip, Google Maps had consistently routed me along busy, well-traveled streets. This time, however, it led me through a maze of narrow alleyways and quiet side streets that immediately put me on alert. The area around Napoli Centrale is busy and energetic, and as I wandered farther from the main roads, I found myself becoming increasingly aware of my surroundings.

Oddly enough, carrying two oversized backpacks gave me a strange sense of confidence.

I joked to myself that I looked more like a turtle than a tourist. If someone wanted to knock me over, they were welcome to try, but they were also going to have a hard time getting me back up again.

Had I been walking with just a handbag, I probably would have felt much more vulnerable. But something about clearly looking like a long-term traveler, slowly making my way to my accommodation, made me feel less like a target and more like someone simply trying to get where she needed to go.

Eventually, I made it to my B&B.

Finding the entrance, however, turned out to be an adventure all its own.

Naples, Italy Overview

Located along the Bay of Naples in southern Italy, Naples is one of the country's oldest and most vibrant cities. It's known as the birthplace of pizza, a gateway to the Amalfi Coast and nearby islands, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site with more than 2,500 years of history. 

Naples is also one of Italy's most polarizing destinations. Some travelers fall in love with its energy, authenticity, and incredible food, while others find it noisy, chaotic, and overwhelming. 

For me, Naples wasn't a destination where I lingered in piazzas or wandered aimlessly through picturesque streets. Instead, it became an excellent base for exploring southern Italy. From here, I took day trips to the quieter island of Procida and the stunning Amalfi Coast.

If you're expecting the polished elegance of Florence or the romantic canals of Venice, Naples may come as a surprise. It's a city with rough edges, heavy traffic, constant motion, and a personality all its own. But that's also part of its appeal. Naples feels unapologetically authentic and unlike anywhere else I visited in Italy.

Whether Naples becomes one of your favorite destinations or simply a memorable stop along the way, it's a city that leaves an impression.

Where I Stayed in Naples: B&B Borbone

For my three nights in Naples, I stayed at B&B Borbone, located on the eastern edge of Naples' historic center, about a 10-minute walk from Napoli Centrale train station and within walking distance of the ferry terminal. For anyone planning day trips to Procida, Capri, or the Amalfi Coast, the location is incredibly convenient.

Finding it, however, was another story.

After my already eventful arrival in Naples, Google Maps led me to the correct building, but I couldn't find the entrance. I circled the block several times, asked a few people for directions, and eventually sent the hotel a message on WhatsApp. Unfortunately, I never received a response. About 20 minutes later, I finally found what looked like an ordinary residential door, which turned out to be the correct entrance.

If you're traveling with a large backpack like I was, be prepared for another challenge: entryways can be surprisingly narrow. I actually had to remove my backpack just to squeeze through.

Inside, the building felt more like an office than a hotel. Since I'd already received instructions for a self-check-in, I used the provided code to enter, found my room key waiting for me, and settled in.

The room itself was simple but perfectly adequate. It included air conditioning, a private bathroom, a wardrobe, a mini refrigerator, and a Nespresso machine, which is everything I needed after long days of sightseeing. It wasn't luxurious, but it was comfortable enough for a few nights.

The biggest drawback was the noise.

During my stay, what appeared to be a large family occupied most of the other rooms. The walls were extremely thin, and I could hear conversations, doors opening and closing, and even notification sounds from neighboring phones well into the night. I contacted the manager more than once, but unfortunately the noise continued.

One pleasant surprise was breakfast. For just €7 each morning, the hotel offered a simple breakfast and was wonderfully accommodating of my gluten-free diet. They provided individually packaged gluten-free muffins each day. So many, in fact, that I packed the extras to take with me for lunch during my day trips.

The neighborhood around the hotel also deserves a mention. While it's undeniably convenient, especially if you're arriving by train or planning ferry excursions, it isn't the most picturesque part of Naples. The area around the train station feels busier and grittier than neighborhoods like Chiaia or Vomero. That said, it also feels authentic, and I appreciated how easy it was to reach both the train station and the ferry terminal on foot.

Would I stay there again? Probably, but mostly because of the location.

If you're looking for an affordable base with easy access to Napoli Centrale and the ferry port, B&B Borbone is a practical choice. Just be prepared for a no-frills experience, bring earplugs in case your neighbors are noisy, and don't be surprised if finding the entrance is your first adventure in Naples.

City street scene with parked cars along a sidewalk, graffiti-covered weathered brick wall, buildings with balconies, and a traffic sign against a blue sky.
Street scene with parked cars along a narrow sidewalk, graffiti-covered walls, and dumpsters, in an urban area with buildings in the background during daytime.
A narrow city street with cobblestone pavement and a flight of steps in the background. There are parked scooters and two trash bins on the side. Buildings on both sides have balconies and air conditioning units. A small puddle of water is visible in
Old, weathered wooden double doors with ornate paneling, peeling brown paint, and a small brass knob on each door, set into a stone or concrete frame.
Brown wooden door with a small lockbox, door handle, padlock, black latch, and electrical wiring.
Hotel room with a bed, pillows, towels, a small white table, chairs, a TV mounted on the wall, window with curtains, air conditioning, and framed pictures.
Hotel bathroom with a walk-in shower, sink, bidet, toilet, and a wall-mounted television.
City street with cobblestone crosswalk, parked cars, tall buildings with balconies, and a clear blue sky.

How I Spent My Time in Naples: Day Trips To Procida Island & The Amalfi Coast

When I planned my time in Naples, I expected to spend my first day exploring the city on foot. I had booked a walking tour, hoping to learn more about Naples beyond my first impressions.

Then, while eating breakfast that morning, I checked my email and discovered the tour had been canceled the night before.

So I did what every traveler eventually learns to do—I pivoted.

I took advantage of one of Naples' biggest strengths: its location. The city is an excellent base for exploring southern Italy, with easy access to nearby islands, the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, and other popular destinations.

Over the next two days, I visited Procida and the Amalfi Coast. Looking back, they ended up being the highlights of my time in Naples.

Day Trip: Procida

When researching Naples, almost everyone recommended taking a ferry to Capri. While I'm sure it's beautiful, I had a feeling it would be a little too crowded for my travel style.

Instead, I chose Procida.

The smallest inhabited island in the Bay of Naples, Procida feels quieter, slower, and more authentic than many of Italy's better-known destinations. With colorful fishing villages, volcanic sand beaches, scenic viewpoints, and charming streets, it turned out to be exactly the kind of day trip I needed.

Getting there couldn't have been easier. I walked about 20 minutes from my hotel to the ferry terminal, purchased a ticket for the next available hydrofoil, and about 35 minutes later I was stepping off the boat in Marina Grande, Procida's colorful waterfront lined with pastel buildings, cafés, restaurants, and small shops. It's a beautiful first impression and the perfect place to orient yourself before exploring the island.

One of the things I loved most about Procida was how many beaches you can walk between in a single day. During my visit, I walked more than 11 miles exploring the island's colorful neighborhoods, scenic viewpoints, and volcanic sand beaches. That said, be prepared for a lot of walking. Many of Procida's roads are narrow and don't have sidewalks, so you'll often be sharing the road with cars, scooters, and pedestrians. It can feel a bit precarious at times, but if you're comfortable walking and don't mind paying attention to traffic, it's a rewarding way to experience the island.

  • Piazza Marina Grande: The heart of the ferry port and one of the liveliest areas on the island. Colorful buildings line the waterfront, with cafés and restaurants overlooking the harbor.

  • Marina di Corricella: Without question, the most picturesque part of Procida. This charming fishing village is famous for its pastel-colored homes stacked along the hillside and waterfront restaurants overlooking the harbor. It feels worlds away from the busier ports of Naples.

  • Borgo di Terra Murata: Perched on the island's highest point, Terra Murata is Procida's oldest neighborhood. The narrow streets, historic buildings, and quiet atmosphere are a sharp contrast to the waterfront below, while the views across the Bay of Naples are some of the best on the island.

  • Palazzo d'Avalos: Dominating the skyline above Terra Murata is Palazzo d'Avalos, a former royal palace that later served as a prison for nearly two centuries. Although the interior isn't always open to visitors, it's an impressive landmark and an important part of Procida's history.

  • Belvedere Elsa Morante: One of the island's most scenic viewpoints, overlooking Marina di Corricella and the colorful fishing village below. It's one of the best places for panoramic photos.

  • Ponte di Vivara: A pedestrian bridge connects Procida with the small protected island of Vivara, a nature reserve known for its walking trails, wildlife, and coastal scenery. Even if you don't explore the reserve itself, the views from the bridge are worth the walk.

  • Marina di Procida: Another waterfront area where fishing boats and ferries come and go, offering a quieter look at daily life on the island.

  • Spiaggia della Chiaia: Reached by a long staircase, this peaceful black sand beach offers beautiful views back toward Terra Murata and Marina di Corricella.

  • Spiaggia di Ciraccio: One of the island's largest beaches, known for its volcanic sand, dramatic sea stacks, and wide-open shoreline. It's a great place to relax or spend a few hours swimming.

  • Spiaggia del Postino (Pozzo Vecchio Beach): This quiet cove became famous after appearing in the film Il Postino. It's smaller than some of the other beaches but has a peaceful atmosphere.

  • Spiaggia della Chiaiolella: Located near Marina Chiaiolella, this is Procida's largest and most popular beach. The calm water makes it an ideal place for swimming, and there are several restaurants nearby.

  • Spiaggia della Silurenza: Just a short walk from the ferry terminal, this small beach is convenient if you're looking for a quick swim before or after your ferry.

  • Spiaggia della Lingua: A small beach near Marina Grande with nice views back toward the harbor and passing boats.

  • Spiaggia di Via dei Bagni: A quieter stretch of shoreline that offers another opportunity to enjoy the island's volcanic coastline away from the busiest areas.

If you're deciding between Capri and Procida, my recommendation depends on the type of trip you're looking for. Capri is famous for luxury shopping, upscale hotels, and dramatic scenery. Procida offers a slower pace, fewer crowds, and a more authentic glimpse of everyday island life. For me, Procida was the perfect choice.

Interior of a ferry or airplane with rows of blue seats, passengers sitting and looking at devices, large windows with curtains, ceiling with air vents and lights, signage including an exit sign and a 'Zona B' sign.
Bright sunny day at a harbor with colorful buildings lining the waterfront. A large yacht is docked in the water, and people are walking along the pier. A man in a suit is in the foreground, and there are boats and a bridge structure over the water.
Street view with colorful buildings, outdoor seating, people walking, and boats docked at the marina in the background under a blue sky.
A pedestrian street lined with yellow buildings, outdoor shops, and potted plants, with people walking and browsing on a sunny day.
A narrow cobblestone street with a man riding a white scooter, tall colorful buildings on the right, a large stone wall on the left, and a few pedestrians walking in the background. The sky is clear and blue.
A narrow cobblestone alleyway in a European city, flanked by old, colorful buildings with various doors and windows, bicycles parked along the side, under a clear blue sky.
A narrow cobblestone street with colorful buildings on the left and a white building on the right, featuring a bright blue door, a window with ornamental ironwork and a potted plant, and a cactus in a planter.
Colorful residential building with a blue front door, a window above, a green door to the right, and a balcony with green railing on the upper level, all set on a cobblestone street.
A coastal cityscape featuring a hillside with colorful buildings overlooking a marina filled with boats and yachts under a bright sun and blue sky.
A harbor with several small boats docked, colorful buildings on a hillside, a lighthouse, and fortress ruins in the background under a bright blue sky with the sun shining.
A harbor with several small boats docked along the stone quay, overlooking a hillside city with colorful buildings, under a clear blue sky, with the sun shining brightly.
Colorful buildings on a hillside in a harbor town, boats docked along the waterfront, outdoor seating and a lamppost near the water, sunny day with a blue sky and some clouds.
Stone staircase with green metal railings leading uphill, flanked by buildings and greenery, against a bright blue sky.
A beach with sand, blue umbrellas, and lounge chairs, bordered by a rocky cliff and vegetation on the left. Several people are on the beach and in the water. The calm sea has a few boats anchored, with a castle-like structure on a hill in the backgro
A stairway leading down to a beach with rocks and umbrellas, framed by a white fence, with the ocean and sailboats in the background under a sunny sky.
People relaxing on a sandy beach with a picnic umbrella, driftwood, rocky shoreline, and cliffs in the background, under a clear blue sky.
A beach with dark sand and small rocks, waves gently crashing onto the shore, steep cliffs with greenery and ruins, and a distant castle on a hill, under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A beach with a sandy shoreline and calm water, bordered by a historic stone wall on the right and houses on a hill in the background under a clear blue sky with a few clouds.
Coastal view of a bay with boats floating on the water, a sandy beach with a few people, rocky cliffs covered in greenery, and a cityscape in the distance under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A narrow alleyway with a tall textured stone wall on the left and a low white wall on the right, shaded by trees; in the distance, a palm tree and colorful houses under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A narrow cobblestone street on a hillside overlooking water, with two buildings on either side, one painted orange and the other with worn white walls and graffiti. Several bicycles are parked next to the white building. The sky is clear with a few c
A narrow stone-paved pathway descending through a hillside alley with stone and brick walls, green foliage, and purple flowers on the left, and a stucco wall with green vines on the right. The background shows a view of a blue sea with several sailbo
A coastal scene with a sandy beach, gentle waves, and a hillside with houses and greenery. Several boats are anchored in the water, and the sky is bright blue with some scattered clouds.
Beach with dark sand, blue umbrellas, and a wooden pier extending into the water, with a hillside and colorful buildings in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
A view of the ocean near a sandy beach with boats anchored in the water and a rocky shoreline on the horizon under a partly cloudy sky.
Brick staircase with pink walls on either side, leading upward against a clear blue sky. Vines and greenery are growing along the right side and top of the staircase, with a stone wall on the left. A blue window frame is on the left side of the stair
A narrow street flanked by tall, aged white and yellow walls with textured surfaces. Shadows from trees cast patterns on the right wall. In the distance, there is a church with a domed roof and a decorative façade, under a bright blue sky with some c
A narrow cobblestone street with a stone wall on the left and yellow houses on the right, under a clear blue sky.
A street scene showing a multi-story building with a stone wall and a closed blue gate and door, blue sky, and some greenery.
A narrow cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings and parked motorcycles and cars. People are walking and the sky is clear with a few clouds.
Beach with umbrellas and lounge chairs, shoreline with people, blue sky, and distant hills.
A black and white cat walking on a cobblestone sidewalk with trees and bushes on the sides.
A cobblestone path leading to a pier that extends into the ocean, with a hill covered in green vegetation on the left and bushes on the right under a blue sky with a few clouds.
A scenic view of a blue ocean with a white boat and a small yacht. In the background, there is a lush green hill with a pathway along the coastline and a bridge extending into the water under a bright blue sky with some white clouds.
A paved walkway extends over the blue ocean, leading to a hill with greenery. Safety railings are on both sides of the walkway. The sky is clear with a few clouds and the sun is shining brightly.
A marina with several boats docked along the pier under a clear blue sky, with colorful buildings lining the shore in the background.
View of a beach with colorful yellow and red umbrellas, a walking promenade with people, and the ocean with cliffs and clouds in the background.
A crowded beach with people sunbathing on chairs and towels, some under umbrellas. The ocean is in the background with a rocky headland and a blue sky with white clouds.
A beach with sand, small waves, and a few boats floating in calm blue water, with a hilly landmass in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
View of a coastal city with colorful buildings, trees, and a distant ocean horizon under a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.
A scenic ocean view with a rocky shoreline in the foreground, sailboats and motorboats on the water, a large rocky cliff on the right, and a partly cloudy sky above.
A narrow cobblestone street in an old European city lined with yellow and weathered beige buildings, some with balconies and plants, under a clear blue sky.
A harbor filled with numerous boats and yachts, surrounded by rocky breakwaters, with a small island or peninsula in the background under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
A coastal harbor with numerous boats and yachts docked, colorful buildings along the shoreline, mountains in the distance, and a bright blue sky with some clouds and the sun shining.
Colorful buildings along the coast with a marina filled with boats and a breakwater in a seaside town, under a partly cloudy blue sky.
A gray tabby cat lying on a gravel driveway, with its eyes closed and front paw raised. The rear portion of a white car with a large tire is visible in the upper left corner, and a section of another tire is in the upper right. The scene is illuminat
Scenic view of a coastal Italian town with colorful buildings, a harbor filled with boats, and mountainous landscape in the background on a clear, sunny day.
Colorful, multi-story buildings with balconies and laundry hanging across a bright blue sky in a Mediterranean seaside town.
Beach with sandy shoreline, small rocks, calm ocean water, stone wall on hillside, clear blue sky with some clouds, distant land and small island.
A marina filled with various boats and yachts docked in calm water under a clear blue sky with some clouds in the background.
A glass of white wine, a bowl of pasta, and a restaurant receipt on a table at a marina with boats in the background.
Boats docked at a harbor under a blue sky with some clouds, including one with a red and white color scheme and another with blue and white.
A marina with a large white and blue tour boat docked on the left, a small black and white vessel in the distance, and a weathered dock extending into the water on the right against a backdrop of a clear blue sky with some clouds.
Map showing an 11.13-mile outdoor walk route in Procida, Italy, with highlighted roads and landmarks including Faro, Marina di Procida, and Barcheggiando.

Day Trip: The Amalfi Coast

My second day trip was a guided tour of the Amalfi Coast. I debated trying to navigate the coast using public transportation, but ultimately decided a small-group tour would be the most efficient way to visit multiple towns in a single day.

The tour departed from Naples and included one-hour stops in Ravello, Amalfi, and Positano. While an hour isn't nearly enough time to fully experience each destination, it was enough to get a feel for the unique personality of each town.

Ravello

Perched high above the coastline, Ravello quickly became my favorite stop of the day. Rather than lingering in the main square, I headed straight for Villa Cimbrone and its famous Terrace of Infinity. The walk through Ravello's quiet streets was almost as enjoyable as the destination itself, and the panoramic views over the Amalfi Coast were some of the most spectacular I saw during my time in Italy.

People waiting at a tunnel entrance with numerous directed signs, parked cars, greenery on the hillside above, and shadows on the road.
Coastal view of green mountain hills with a small town along the shoreline and boats on a blue ocean, under a clear sky.
Two cats resting on top of an ATM machine outdoors, surrounded by green bushes and trees.
Scenic view of a hillside landscape with lush greenery, scattered houses on the mountainside, and a view of the ocean in the background under a clear blue sky with a few clouds. A tall pine tree is on the right side of the image.
A narrow stone pathway with brick and concrete paving, bordered by stone walls, winding through a hillside town. To the left, there is a building with a yellowish wall and an arched window, with a black metal fence along the edge. On the right, there
Archway with a sign reading 'Villa Cimbrome' in green letters, stone wall on the left, building with a pinkish hue behind, and trees with green leaves in the background.
A serene garden with a pathway bordered by large planters, palm trees, and lush greenery, sunlight illuminating the scene against a clear blue sky.
A charming outdoor garden pathway shaded by trees with a stone-paved walkway, large potted plants, and historic stone and stucco walls, under a clear blue sky with sunlight filtering through the branches.
A shaded stone pathway flanked by a stone wall on one side and a row of white columns supporting a vine-covered trellis on the other, with lush greenery and trees overhead.
Stone archway with a pathway, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.
View of a large pine tree with sun shining through its branches, overlooking a coastal landscape with the ocean in the distance, and a row of smaller trees and shrubs along a sidewalk in the foreground.
A coastal landscape with a bright sun in a clear blue sky, rugged green hills along the shoreline, and a calm ocean with a small boat in view.
A picturesque view of a coastal landscape with blue ocean water, multiple boats, green hills, and residential houses.
A scenic coastline with a deep blue sea, green hills, and a clear blue sky. Several boats are visible on the water, and houses are scattered along the hillside on the right side of the image. A large tree branch with green pine needles is in the uppe
A dirt pathway winding through a grove of trees with green leaves and a clear blue sky overhead.
A dirt path lined with trimmed bushes on the left and tall trees on the right, with sunlight casting shadows on the ground in a park setting.
Courtyard view of an old stone building with arched windows and a central stone fountain, surrounded by potted plants and vines climbing the walls, under a clear blue sky.
A winding walkway with a safety railing, surrounded by lush greenery and climbing plants on the left, overlooking a scenic view of distant mountains and a small town below on a bright, sunny day with a clear blue sky and a few clouds.
A cat standing outside a store window, looking inside. The store has wooden flooring, shelves with handbags, shoes, and clothing displayed. The exterior ground is rough, cracked concrete.
A black cat with yellow eyes standing on a sidewalk next to a white pole, with a brick and concrete background.
A narrow cobblestone street lined with stone buildings, shops, and an outdoor market on a sunny day
A lively outdoor plaza with people walking and sitting at tables, surrounded by colorful flowers in pots. In the background, there is a historic church with a tall bell tower and a stone facade, under a clear blue sky, with several trees and a small
A rooftop pool area overlooking a scenic coastline with mountains and blue ocean water, with lounge chairs and umbrellas around the pool.
Coastal village with houses and terraced agriculture along steep hillsides, overlooking a blue sea under a clear sky with some clouds.

Amalfi

Amalfi was every bit as lively as I expected. After walking through Piazza del Duomo and admiring the impressive cathedral, I escaped the crowds and found a quiet spot along the waterfront. Watching fishing boats, ferries, and beachgoers against the backdrop of dramatic cliffs gave me a chance to slow down and appreciate the town from a different perspective.

Colorful hillside buildings with white, beige, and pink facades, many with balconies, terraced into a steep hillside with greenery, trees, and rocky cliffs in the background, and a stone bridge in the foreground with cars and people.
Cliffside view of a coastal town with colorful buildings and lush green vegetation, hillside tunnels, and boats at the waterfront.
Crowded staircase leading up to a historic church with a patterned facade and a tall bell tower, surrounded by city buildings, people, and outdoor cafe seating under umbrellas on a sunny day.
People walking on a stone pier along the coast, with beachgoers sunbathing and swimming, colorful buildings on hillside, hills and blue sky with clouds in the background.
A beach with many people relaxing on the sand and swimming in the water, with a hillside town featuring colorful buildings and a mountain behind it, under a clear blue sky.
A coastal town with colorful buildings on a steep hillside beside a harbor filled with boats and yachts, with cloudy blue sky overhead and a stone promenade in the foreground.
Colorful buildings on a hillside above a harbor with boats, stone breakwater, and rocky shoreline under a partly cloudy blue sky.
Coastal town with colorful buildings on a hillside next to the sea, boats in the water, rocky shoreline, under a partly cloudy sky.
Person's legs and feet with red toenail polish, submerged in clear turquoise ocean water, with the underwater view of the sea bottom visible.
Person standing on a boat holding a large pink heart shape above their head, with a coastal town built on hillside in the background under a partly cloudy sky.
A group of seven people standing together on a beach, smiling at the camera, with the ocean, boats, and colorful buildings on a hillside in the background. One person is holding a sign that says "Ammilf Coast Day Tours."
A panoramic view of the sea with calm blue water reflecting sunlight, a small boat floating near rocky cliffs, and a coastline with greenery and trees on the right side under a clear blue sky.
A coastal road carved into a rocky cliffside overlooking the ocean, with a tunnel entrance in the cliff face and a motorcycle on the road.

Positano

Positano is undeniably beautiful, but it was also the busiest place I visited on the Amalfi Coast. The steep staircases leading down to the beach were packed with visitors, and the climb back up in the afternoon heat was every bit as challenging as I'd anticipated. Instead of trying to squeeze in more sightseeing, I ordered a Hugo Spritz near the harbor and watched the endless stream of ferries deliver even more visitors.

Even though Positano wasn't my favorite stop, there's no denying the views are incredible. Looking down from above at the colorful buildings tumbling toward the sea is one of the Amalfi Coast's most iconic scenes.

Scenic view of a coastal town with houses on the hillside, a clear blue sea with boats, and mountain cliffs under a partly cloudy sky.
A view of a large body of water with several boats and speedboats creating wakes, seen from a rocky hillside with trees and buildings at the bottom left corner, under a mostly clear blue sky with a few clouds.
Scenic view of a coastal landscape with blue sea, boats, green hills, and a clear sky with a few clouds and bright sunlight.
A seaside restaurant terrace with people dining under large beige umbrellas, overlooking the ocean and a cliffside town, with clear blue sky and sunlight reflecting on the water.
A coastal scene with a beach, boats on the water, and a hillside with houses.
Tourists walking and sitting in a lively piazza with colorful buildings, shops, restaurants, greenery, and hillside houses against a blue sky with clouds.
Colorful hillside buildings with a church and a blue sky with white clouds, overlooking a waterfront with boats and outdoor cafes.
A table setting with a glass of yellow cocktail garnished with purple and green edible flowers, with small bowls of snacks such as potato chips, salted peanuts, and roasted chickpeas.
Crowded outdoor seaside café scene with people walking and sitting, bordered by buildings with balconies and flowers, and a view of the ocean with boats and a yacht.
Sign reading 'Toilets' with an additional sign below indicating directions for men's and women's restrooms.
Mountainside village with colorful buildings, lush greenery, flowering trees, and a sunny sky.
View of a coastal town with colorful buildings on a hillside, boats anchored in the water, and the sun shining through the trees.
Aerial view of a large body of water with numerous boats, yachts, and speedboats scattered across the surface, under a clear blue sky with sunlight reflecting off the water.
A coastal landscape featuring a large hillside with houses, rugged cliffs, and a deep blue sea with boats and yachts, under a partly cloudy sky.
A colorful ceramic mug featuring a lemon design, placed on a stone surface overlooking a scenic coastal landscape with blue water, boats, green trees, and mountains in the background.

Where I Ate: Gluten-Free Dining in Naples, Italy

After the day I'd had, all I wanted on my first evening in Naples was a great gluten-free pizza and a glass of wine. Unfortunately, things didn't quite go according to plan.

After my stressful train ride, challenging walk from the station, and frustrating hotel check-in, I set off in search of what I'd read was one of the best places for gluten-free pizza in Naples. It was about 6:00 p.m. when I arrived, only to learn, rather emphatically, that they didn't open until 7:30.

Normally, I would have happily wandered around and waited.

But after everything that had happened that day, I simply didn't have it in me. I walked back toward my hotel, stopped at a small neighborhood market, picked up some sliced meat, cheese, and a bottle of wine, and called it a night.

Thankfully, my second attempt was much more successful.

Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro

The following evening, I discovered Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro, just a short walk from my hotel, and it ended up becoming my go-to restaurant in Naples.

The restaurant isn't fancy, but that's part of its charm. The gluten-free Neapolitan pizza was excellent, the portions were generous, and the staff made me feel genuinely welcome. I enjoyed it so much that I returned the following night, and the host even let me take a bottle of wine back to my hotel after dinner.

If you're traveling gluten-free and staying near Napoli Centrale, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. As an added bonus, there's a popular gelato shop directly across the street if you're looking for dessert afterward.

My dining experiences in Naples were very different from the leisurely meals I enjoyed in Venice, but in the end, I found exactly what I'd been hoping for: authentic Neapolitan pizza that I could safely enjoy without gluten.

A glass of white wine, a dark green wine bottle with a vintage-style label, an upside-down glass, and a yellow napkin with green text that reads "Grianon Pizzeria Verace Napoletana" on a marble table. In the background, there are chairs and windows o
A pizza with cheese and basil leaves on a white plate, placed on a yellow paper mat on a marble table. Behind, there is a bottle of white wine, a glass of wine, and an upside-down glass in a restaurant setting with chairs and a marble wall.
A pizza with cherry tomatoes, basil, and cheese on a white plate on a yellow and green tray, with a glass of white wine and a bottle of wine on a marble table.

Final Thoughts: Naples, Italy 

Naples wasn't my favorite city in Italy.

It was the most chaotic, the most overwhelming, and at times the most stressful place I visited during my three months traveling through Europe. My arrival was rocky, my first impression wasn't great, and even by the time I boarded my train to Salerno, I wasn't sure I'd ever want to return.

But time has a funny way of changing perspective.

Looking back, I realize I was judging Naples against every other place I'd already visited, especially Venice, which had completely captured my heart. Naples isn't trying to be Venice. It's louder, grittier, faster paced, and far less polished. It's a city with rough edges, and that's exactly what many people love about it.

More importantly, Naples gave me access to some of my favorite experiences in southern Italy. Wandering the colorful streets of Procida, standing on the Terrace of Infinity in Ravello, watching ferries arrive in Amalfi, and sipping a Hugo Spritz in Positano are memories I'll always associate with this part of Italy. I also found some excellent gluten-free pizza and discovered that sometimes the best travel experiences happen when your original plans fall apart.

Would I return? Yes, but I'd do it differently. I'd stay in a different neighborhood, spend more time exploring Naples itself, and use the city once again as a base for discovering everything the Bay of Naples has to offer.

If you're looking for a perfectly polished destination, Naples may not be for you. But if you're willing to embrace a little unpredictability, keep an open mind, and venture beyond your first impression, you may discover that Naples has far more to offer than it first lets on.

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