Paris Travel Guide: A Faster Pace After a Gentle Start

Paris is France’s capital and cultural heart, known for its architecture, food, art, and layered history. It’s elegant and energetic, romantic and gritty — often all at once. Unlike London’s gentler sprawl, Paris feels denser and more intense, with beauty packed into every block.

I visited in late summer, and Paris was warm, sunny, and vibrant — the kind of weather that encourages long walks, late dinners, and possibly questionable transportation decisions (read more below).

Before leaving for my trip, I made a pact with myself: whenever possible, I would walk from the Gare du Nord train station to my hotel. Arrival day in Paris was my first test.

It was a warm, beautiful afternoon. I stepped off the train with my full turtle setup — a 25-lb backpack in front and a 50-lb backpack on my back — and committed to a 45-minute walk to my hotel.

In retrospect, I should have taken a cab.

I arrived drenched in sweat, silently narrating my own internal monologue: Typical gross American. I tried to wipe my face, gather myself, and make small talk with the impeccably chic women at the front desk while checking in.

When I told them I’d walked from the station, they immediately sympathized — apparently not many people do that. For good reason. Especially when it’s hot. And you’re hauling 75 pounds of cargo.

Lesson learned (again): ambition is great. So are taxis.

I stayed at Hotel Georgette, tucked into the heart of Le Marais, spanning the 3rd and 4th arrondissements on Paris’s Right Bank. Le Marais is historic yet trendy, known for its preserved architecture, narrow streets, cafés, boutiques, and lively — but not overwhelming — energy.

The location was incredibly convenient. Nearly everything felt walkable (depending on how much you enjoy walking — which, as it turns out, I enjoy a lot).

The hotel itself was charming and intimate, with a café and bar downstairs and a great view. No matter where I wandered in the evenings, I always felt safe walking back — there were people out and about, but once inside the room, it was quiet and calm.

I stayed in a Classic Double room, which was perfect for one person but would feel tight for two. It was also my first experience with a hotel that requires you to insert your room key into a slot to activate electricity — a detail that required a quick, humbling chat with the front desk.

Arrival day reminded me of an important truth: it’s okay to take it slow. After showering, unpacking, and decompressing, I headed out for dinner — a far better choice than trying to see everything immediately.

The following day, I joined a Paris bike tour with Blue Fox Travel, which turned out to be one of my favorite Paris experiences — despite torrential rain. Our guide was excellent, the group was game, and we covered highlights like the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the Champs-Élysées in a fraction of the time a walking tour would take.

That afternoon, I continued exploring on foot: Île de la Cité, the 5th arrondissement, Jardin Tino-Rossi, Pont d’Austerlitz, the 12th arrondissement, Gare de Lyon, Porte Dorée, the 11th arrondissement, and the Coulée Verte René-Dumont.

Between biking and walking, I clocked about 35,000 steps — while breaking in new shoes. My feet were not thrilled.

The next morning, I had a reservation for the Eiffel Tower (book ahead — always). I opted for stairs to the second floor, thinking, How bad could it be?

The answer: 674 steps.

There was laughter, sighing, strategic pauses, and deep breathing — but I made it. And the views were absolutely worth it. Yes, it was crowded. Yes, there were endless selfies. But standing there, taking in Paris from above, was a moment I’d waited a long time for.

That afternoon turned into another marathon walk: Pont des Arts, Champs-Élysées, Montmartre Cemetery, Sacré-Cœur, Saint-Denis, Jardin du Luxembourg, the Panthéon, Place de la Bastille, and Père Lachaise.

By the end of the day, I had logged nearly 48,000 steps and worsened my already blistered feet — but I knew Amsterdam was next, and rest would come later. A tomorrow problem.

Traveling with celiac disease always requires extra planning, but Paris had far more gluten-free options than I expected. With a bit of research (thank you, Find Me Gluten Free), I was able to eat well without constant stress.

Standout meals included: Kapunka, a 100% gluten-free Thai restaurant where the yellow curry with Mikatis was unforgettable; The Friendly Kitchen, a vegan spot that was incredibly accommodating and genuinely kind; and Les Galandines, which could adapt nearly all of its crepes — I enjoyed both a savory and a sweet one.

With preparation, eating safely — and joyfully — was absolutely possible.