Prague Travel Guide: Storybook Views, Hillside Walks, and Gluten-Free Finds

A Solo Traveler’s 2-Day Itinerary Through Castles, Neighborhoods, and Celiac-Safe Eats

Prague was one of my longer stops on this trip—three nights and two full days—which, in the context of long-term travel, felt like a bit of a luxury. I was excited to settle in, unpack more than just the essentials, and finally experience a city that so many people had raved about before I left.

Travel has a way of playing with expectations. Some places are quick connections that end up surprising you, while others arrive with a reputation that’s hard to live up to. So much shapes the experience—weather, energy, timing, the people you meet along the way. Prague was firmly in the “high expectations” category for me, and I was curious to see how it would unfold.

Prague Overview

Prague, the capital of Czechia, sits along the Vltava River and feels like a true storybook city. Its skyline—often called the “City of a Hundred Spires”—is layered with Gothic towers, baroque domes, and red-tiled rooftops that stretch across hills and riverbanks.

At the center is Old Town Square, home to the Astronomical Clock, while Charles Bridge connects Old Town to the castle district rising above the river. Anchoring it all is Prague Castle, one of the largest historic castle complexes in the world.

Despite its grandeur, Prague is incredibly walkable—but not flat. The city’s hills are very real, especially as you move toward the castle, Petřín Hill, and other viewpoints. Expect stairs, inclines, and a bit of a workout—but also some of the best views in the city as your reward.

Where I Stayed In Prague: Malá Strana / Lesser Town

I based myself in Malá Strana, a historic neighborhood tucked just below Prague Castle on the west side of the river. With its cobblestone streets and baroque façades, it feels quieter and more residential than the busier Old Town across the bridge—while still being within easy walking distance of everything.

I stayed at Hotel Three Storks, a boutique hotel set in a building dating back to the 14th century. Inside, the design is clean and modern, with subtle historic details and just over twenty rooms, giving it a calm, intimate feel. My “Single Room Superior” was the perfect size for one person—comfortable, functional, and exactly what I needed after long days of walking. Breakfast was included and served as a generous hot buffet, with a mix of continental and cooked options—pastries, breads, eggs, fruit, and more—alongside coffee and juices. A simple, easy way to start each day.

A tall stone tower with a clock, topped with spires and a weather vane, standing on a busy city street with pedestrians walking along the sidewalk, surrounded by historic buildings and trees.

City street with tramcar, overhead wires, traffic light, residential buildings, and cloudy sky.

A narrow European street with historical buildings, two people walking, flags hanging outside a building, overcast sky.

A city square with historic buildings, a parking lot filled with cars, and overcast cloudy sky. There is a yellow and blue flag on a pole on the left side.

Hotel room with a bed, pillows, a flat-screen TV, a yellow armchair, a white desk with a television remote, a picture on the wall, and a window with curtains.

Inside a hotel room with a bed, nightstand, desk, and chair, seen from the perspective of someone sitting in a yellow chair.

A small bathroom with a white sink and a circular mirror, beige tiled walls, a glass shower stall with a door, a toilet with a toilet paper roll, and a wall-mounted shelf with two rolls of toilet paper. There is also a soap dispenser on the sink and a small, black electronic device on the floor.

View through an open window showing historic buildings with red-tiled roofs, a parking lot filled with cars, and a cloudy sky.

View of a residential building courtyard with glass roof panels, multiple windows, rooftops with red tiles, a glass elevator shaft, and metal railings.

What I Did in Prague: Castles, Gardens, and the Neighborhoods Beyond Old Town

If you’ve read my other posts, you know I fall into a bit of a routine when I arrive somewhere new. I like to walk from the train station when I can, but between the weather and hauling 75 pounds of luggage, I usually arrive a bit of a mess. So the first couple of hours are always the same: unpacking, getting settled, and taking a much-needed shower. This was also one of the few nights on my trip without a dinner reservation, so I spent some time figuring out a plan for the evening.

The next morning, I was up early for a full day of exploring. I started in Hradčanské Square (often called Hradčany Square), the grand space that fronts Prague Castle and acts as its main ceremonial gateway. From here, you get sweeping views over the city and an easy entrance into the castle complex, including St. Vitus Cathedral. As with most major European sights, there were plenty of tour groups, but as a solo traveler, it was still easy to slip through and find open pockets of space.

City street scene featuring a white and red tram on cobblestone tracks, historic buildings with detailed facades, and a church with green domes and clock towers in the background under a clear blue sky.

Street view of European-style buildings with cobblestone pavement, a red door, and a streetlamp, under a blue sky.

Colorful old buildings with green and beige facades on a cobblestone street under a clear blue sky. Some windows are open and a door with blue paint has city signs and a small window.

A narrow cobblestone street in a European city, lined with colorful buildings with flower boxes and street lamps, under a clear blue sky.

A narrow, slightly sloped cobblestone street lined with yellow and white buildings on a sunny day, with a bright blue sky overhead.

Narrow cobblestone street between colorful buildings with flowers in window boxes and a bright blue sky overhead.

The facade of a building with ornate black and white decorative patterns, windows with flower boxes filled with red flowers, graffiti on utility boxes, and a cobblestone sidewalk.

A narrow outdoor alley with stone stairs leading upward, flanked by old European-style buildings with yellow and white facades. There are handrails along the stairs and a planter with red flowers on the right side, with clear blue sky above.

Stone staircase leading upward between old buildings with a blue sky overhead.

A view from a narrow street or alleyway on a hill, showing rooftops and distant cityscape with a clear blue sky and some clouds.

View of a historic city square with ornate buildings, statues, and a cathedral with tall spires under a blue sky with some clouds.

The image shows a historic building with ornate, black and white patterned stonework on the facade, featuring intricate floral and geometric designs, along with tall windows and a steep dark roof with chimneys.

Crowd of people walking on cobblestone square in front of historic cream-colored building with sculptures on roof and entrance, under a blue sky with sunlight.

View of a historic gate with ornate black iron gates and four large stone statues of regal figures on pillars. In front, a patterned cobblestone street with pedestrians and a sign that reads 'Prague 1346'.

A woman smiling and taking a selfie with a scenic view of a European city with red-roofed buildings, green hills, and a church in the distance.

A large yellow historic building with numerous windows and statues on the roof. People are walking and standing outside in a sunny area.

People walking along a cobblestone pathway beside a brick wall with an arched entrance, on a sunny day with a large yellow historic building in the background and clear blue sky above.

A historical white building with large windows and a red tiled roof. In the foreground, there are stone steps leading up to the building, flanked by potted plants and lush green trees under a clear blue sky. A single bird is flying in the sky.

A stately historic building with architectural details, large windows, and a brick and stone exterior, surrounded by a well-maintained lawn and trees under a clear blue sky.

Photo of a historic building with white facade, multiple windows, and decorative architectural details, with a staircase leading to an archway entrance, surrounded by trees under a clear blue sky.

Corner of a large cream-colored building with multiple windows, small trees planted along the sidewalk, a well-maintained lawn, and a gravel pathway, under a clear blue sky.

Photo of a church building with tall windows, statues, and crosses on top, surrounded by additional buildings under a clear blue sky.

People gather outside a Gothic cathedral with two tall spires and ornate stone facade under a clear blue sky with bright sunshine.

Looking up at a historic government building with a large coat of arms above the main entrance, topped with statues holding flags, under a clear blue sky.

From there, I wandered into Petřín Gardens, which ended up being one of my favorite parts of the city. Spreading across Petřín Hill, the park is threaded with walking paths, trees, and landscaped areas, with long uphill and downhill stretches that reward you with views back over the river and rooftops. At the top sits the Petřín Tower, a scaled-down, Eiffel Tower–inspired lookout with panoramic city views. Throughout the , you’ll find quiet corners, orchards, and a rose garden.

On the way up or down the hill, I made time for the Strahov Monastery gardens, a more contained viewpoint just beside the monastery. Elevated above the city, it offers some of the most peaceful, cinematic views over the castle, the river, and the Old Town skyline. Tucked within the gardens is the statue of Our Lady of Exile (Panna Maria z Exilu), installed in 1994 to symbolize the return of exiled Czechs, adding a reflective layer to the already contemplative setting overlooking Prague.

A narrow, cobblestone street lined with colorful, multi-story buildings with traditional European architecture, including windows and small balconies, under a clear blue sky.

A narrow outdoor passageway between two walls. The left wall has some graffiti and a decorative framed blackboard sign that reads 'HOST RESTAURANT TRADITIONAL ITALIAN RESTAURANT' with menu items below. The right wall has graffiti and a cartoonish drawing of a tiger. The ground is covered in colorful graffiti and stickers. In the distance, a small hill with trees and a building with a sloped roof is visible, and the sky is clear and blue.

A narrow paved pathway through lush green foliage with trees and plants on either side, overlooking a cityscape in the distance under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

A scenic cityscape view from a park with lush green trees and grass in the foreground, historic buildings with red rooftops, and a tall television tower in the distance under a partly cloudy blue sky.

A scenic path lined with greenery and trees, leading to a historic building with two towers and a red roof under a clear blue sky.

An outdoor stone staircase with many steps, flanked by a mossy stone wall on the left and a white building with windows on the right, leading downward to a small paved street lined with trees.

Outdoor stone staircase descending through a graffiti-covered wall, surrounded by dense green trees and bright sunlight filtering through the leaves.

Stone staircase descending through a wooded area, with graffiti on the stone walls on either side and lush green trees overhead.

Outdoor stone staircase with a metal handrail, surrounded by trees with green foliage, some graffiti on a brick wall beside it, and fallen leaves on the ground.

A tall, metallic television tower viewed through trees with green leaves and a clear blue sky.

A pink baroque-style church with three spires topped with crosses seen against a clear blue sky, with surrounding trees and a cobblestone pathway in the foreground.

A scenic view of a city skyline across a river, framed by trees with green leaves in the foreground, under a blue sky with some clouds.

A cobblestone pathway curves through a shaded area with green leafy trees on one side and a stone wall on the other, sunlight filtering through the leaves.

A historic stone building with crenellated walls and tall narrow windows, surrounded by graffiti-covered walls and green grass, with trees and a bright blue sky in the background.

A paved walking path in a dense forest with trees and green foliage on both sides, some benches along the path, and sunlight filtering through the leaves.

Wooden stairs leading into a lush green forest with tall trees and sunlight streaming through the leaves.

A panoramic view of Prague cityscape with historic buildings, red rooftops, a river, and a cathedral with two tall spires, under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

A white religious statue of the Virgin Mary standing on a stone pedestal in a park, surrounded by bushes and trees, with a blue sky overhead.

View of a city with red rooftops and green trees, taken from a hillside park. In the foreground, a dog is resting on a concrete ledge near a chain barrier, with blue sky and scattered clouds overhead.

A sunny outdoor scene featuring a dirt walking trail through a grassy area with trees, under a blue sky with some white clouds.

A dirt path through a grassy park with multiple trees, green leaves, and a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.

Later, I followed the river to Vyšehrad, a historic fortress and park complex perched above the Vltava. According to legend, it’s one of the oldest settlements in Prague, and today it feels like a quieter, more local counterpart to the castle: open green spaces, ramparts, and a steady supply of viewpoints back toward the city. Within the grounds you’ll find the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul and the Vyšehrad Cemetery, where many notable Czech figures are buried.

From there, I looped back to see the Dancing House, one of the city’s most recognizable modern landmarks along the river. Designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunić and completed in 1996, the building’s curved, sculptural form looks like a pair of dancers in motion, earning it the nickname “Fred and Ginger.” It now houses offices, a hotel, and a rooftop restaurant and terrace.

I ended that first big walking day at Vrtba Gardens, a baroque hillside garden tucked into Malá Strana. Built in the early 18th century, it unfolds in terraces linked by staircases, with manicured hedges, sculptures, and architectural details, gradually revealing views over Malá Strana’s rooftops and up toward the castle as you climb. Despite being centrally located, it felt tucked away and surprisingly calm—one of those places where you can hear the city and simultaneously feel slightly removed from it.

City street scene with tall, ornate buildings on both sides, people crossing the street, parked cars, and signposts with traffic and parking symbols. The sky is blue with some clouds.

A city street scene with buildings, pedestrians, and a construction barrier on a sunny day with a blue sky and some clouds.

Street view between historic buildings with decorative facades, parked cars, and a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.

View of a city river with buildings and a bridge in the background, a tower with a pointed roof, and a partly cloudy sky.

View of a cityscape with historical buildings along a river during daytime, with boats docked at the waterfront and a partly cloudy sky overhead.

A large steel bridge over a river with a cobblestone promenade below. Clouds and blue sky are seen above, and there are boats and buildings on the opposite bank of the river.

View of a large gothic-style church with two tall spires against a partly cloudy sky. The church is made of dark stone with intricate architectural details, stained glass windows, and some decorative elements. On the left, a tree with green leaves is visible. On the right, part of a white building and a person are seen.

View of a cemetery with various tombstones and crosses under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

A large Gothic church with twin spires, surrounded by a graveyard with headstones and flowers, under a partly cloudy sky with sunlight filtering through the trees.

Cityscape with red-roofed buildings along a river, under a partly cloudy sky with rainbow and sunlight.

Cityscape view with red-tiled rooftops, green trees, a river, and cloudy sky.

View of a narrow outdoor pathway between two residential buildings, with a rusty metal window grill on the left and a chain-link fence on the right, leading to a green backyard with trees. The sky is partly cloudy.

Modern architectural building with a glass spiral staircase and irregularly shaped windows, located next to traditional historic buildings, with street traffic and pedestrians in the foreground under a partly cloudy sky.

Street view with historic European-style buildings, a tall stone tower with a green, onion-shaped roof, a lamp post, cars parked along the street, and pedestrians walking on the sidewalk.

A street scene with parked bicycles in front of a colorful graffitied wall, and a large historic building with a flagpole flying the Polish flag, under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

A garden with manicured bushes, a flower bed, a small fountain, and a white ornate building with statues on a staircase, under a blue sky with clouds.

A courtyard garden with geometric flower beds filled with red, white, and pink flowers, trimmed bushes, and a decorative water fountain, surrounded by historic buildings with red-tiled roofs and a large tree.

A red and white tram moving through a European city square, with historic buildings and a partly cloudy sky in the background.

The following day began with the Rick Steves Prague City Walk, which was a helpful, structured overview, even though much of central Europe seems to be in a perpetual state of scaffolding at the moment. Some monuments were partially covered or closed off, which is a good reminder to factor in construction as a given when traveling in Europe: you can walk a long way to see something and still find yourself staring at tarps and fencing. Flexibility is the only real solution.

The walk included a stop at the Prague Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square, one of the city’s most famous landmarks. First installed in 1410, it is one of the oldest working astronomical clocks in the world and tracks not only time, but the positions of the sun and moon and a series of symbolic elements tied to mortality and human nature. Each hour, crowds gather to watch the small mechanical procession of figures, including the Twelve Apostles, appear in the clock’s upper windows; even if you skip the performance, it’s worth the pause just to take in the intricacy and longevity of the piece.

From there, I explored the Jewish Quarter (Josefov), a compact but historically dense area known for its preserved synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Together, these sites form one of the most important Jewish historical areas in Europe, even as the surrounding streets today mix that history with elegant buildings and upscale shops along Pařížská.

I then crossed into Karlín, an up-and-coming neighborhood just outside the historic center that has shifted from industrial to modern and creative. The area is full of cafés, restaurants, and offices and has a more contemporary, everyday feel—less “historic postcard,” more “this is where people actually work and hang out.” From there, I continued to Žižkov, a lively residential district with an alternative edge, famously known for its high concentration of pubs and local bars. Landmarks like the Žižkov Television Tower and nearby parks offer yet another vantage point over the city, making the area feel like a different, more lived-in side of Prague.

View of a courtyard with multiple floors of yellow and beige buildings, windows, balconies with plants, and a partly cloudy sky overhead.

An urban street scene with a wide pedestrian area, trees, and fountains. Modern buildings line both sides, with a notable dome and clock tower in the distance. The sky is partly cloudy with the sun shining through.

A bronze statue of an elephant with a person riding on its back, located inside a building with a glass and decorated ceiling.

A historic European building with ornate architecture, stone statues, and a clock tower topped with a pointed spire, against a cloudy sky.

Street scene in a European city with historic buildings, outdoor cafe seating, pedestrians, and cobblestone pavement on a partly cloudy day.

Public square in a European city with historic buildings, a tall clock tower, a column with a statue on top, and a crowd of people walking on cobblestone pavement.

Historic clock tower and cathedral in a European city, cloudy sky, old buildings, and gothic architecture.

A bustling European outdoor square with colorful historic buildings, street cafes with umbrellas, and many pedestrians.

A paved cycling or walking path bordered by green bushes and trees on the left and right, with a modern multi-story building with glass windows on the right, under a cloudy sky.

A hallway or tunnel with yellow-tiled curved walls, a cobblestone floor, and ceilings with lighting fixtures. There are a few people walking, one with a bicycle or delivery bag.

A tunnel with mosaic tiled walls and ceiling, graffiti on the right wall, cobblestone path inside, leading to a view of a building and cloudy sky outside.

A cobblestone pathway viewed from underneath an arched brick tunnel, with reflective mirrored walls on both sides and a building with multiple windows in the background.

Street scene with multiple parked cars on cobblestone street, old buildings with graffiti, street signs including a reserved parking sign, a speed limit sign, and a oneway sign, under cloudy sky.

Street scene with cobblestone paving and parked cars on the left, tall pastel-colored buildings on either side, graffiti-covered metal fence on the right, and a cloudy sky above.

A street scene featuring a white historic building with intricate architectural details and graffiti on the lower part. There are parked bikes and cars along the sidewalk, and a person wearing a hat is walking on the right side. The sky is overcast.

After lunch, I made my way to Letná Park via the Czech Bridge. Letná is a wide, open park perched above the river, known for its sweeping views of Prague’s bridges and the Old Town skyline. It’s popular for walking, biking, and lingering at the Letná Beer Garden. Near the top, the large Prague Metronome marks the spot where a huge Stalin monument once stood, a reminder of the city’s more recent political history layered onto its scenic overlook.

I then continued on to Chotek Gardens (Chotkovy sady), one of the oldest public parks in Prague, located on the hillside just below Prague Castle. It serves as a peaceful, green corridor connecting the castle area with nearby neighborhoods like Letná. Known for its shaded walking paths, mature trees, and quiet atmosphere, the park feels more understated and local than some of Prague’s larger viewpoints. While it doesn’t draw big crowds, it offers occasional glimpses of the city below and is a pleasant spot for a calm walk.

I then finished up by exploring Dejvice, a residential, university-centered neighborhood in Prague, located northwest of the historic center. Known for its relaxed pace, it feels more local and everyday compared to the more tourist-heavy districts. At its heart is Vítězné náměstí (often called “Kulaťák”), a large circular square that anchors the neighborhood and serves as a hub for trams, cafés, and a popular weekend farmers market. With a strong student presence and plenty of low-key restaurants and coffee spots, Dejvice is a great area to experience a different side of Prague.

More than 30,000 steps later, I was very ready to clean up and enjoy my last evening before heading to Vienna.

Concrete outdoor staircase covered in colorful graffiti, surrounded by lush green trees, with three people ascending the stairs on an overcast day.

People sitting and standing on an observation platform with a view of a city skyline and a panoramic sky with clouds, and a large crane structure in the foreground.

A person sitting on a park bench overlooking a cityscape with trees and cloudy sky.

A historic building with a curved, green roof and tall arches on its upper level, surrounded by trees and a grassy area in a park-like setting during daytime.

A building with a weathered, orange stucco exterior, white and brick patterned trim, and white framed windows, with potted plants and a pathway in a garden area with trees and decorative urns.

A city park with a rectangular water feature with rocks, surrounded by benches, trees, and buildings in the background, and a historic clock tower building at the center.

What I Ate in Prague: Gluten-Free Finds in the City of a Hundred Spires

Finding gluten-free food in Prague—within walking distance of my hotel—was more challenging than in some of my other stops, but not impossible. With the help of FindMeGlutenFree, I was able to track down several spots that felt both safe and satisfying for my needs.

My first evening, feeling tired and not up for a late night, I walked to El Centro, a Latin American–inspired restaurant with a lively, colorful atmosphere. The menu pulls from Central and South American flavors—think tacos, grilled meats, and shareable plates—and the kitchen was very accommodating to gluten-free needs. I ordered gluten-free empanadas, tacos, and churros with chocolate sauce, plus a margarita, which ended up being the exact comfort-food energy I needed to kick off my time in the city.

The next night, I had an outstanding Italian dinner at Alriso Risotteria Italiana, a fully gluten-free Italian restaurant in Old Town. As the name suggests, it specializes in risotto, but the menu also includes gluten-free pasta, desserts, and classic Italian dishes. The setting is warm and understated, and I was able to sit outside on the patio, which gave the evening a relaxed, neighborhood feel—especially nice after a long day of walking.

The following day, I went to Restaurace U Agamy in Žižkov for a traditional Czech meal that was entirely gluten-free. The restaurant focuses on classic Czech dishes—like goulash, schnitzel, and dumplings—recreated in a way that’s safe for gluten-free (and largely dairy-free) diners, which is rare in Prague’s more traditional food scene. The space itself is low-key and neighborhood-oriented, tucked away from the main tourist paths, which made the experience feel both special and refreshingly local.

For my final dinner, I leaned back into Latin American flavors at Alebrijes (La Casa Azteca), a Mexican restaurant near the center with a colorful, energetic vibe. The menu offers tacos, enchiladas, grilled dishes, and a strong lineup of cocktails and tequila.

A small restaurant on a wet street with a sign reading 'EL CENTRO.' The storefront has images of food, including dishes with meat and vegetables. A chalkboard menu is inside, listing items such as Mexican cuisine, gluten-free options, and various dishes like tacos and mojitos. The building has decorative elements and warm lighting, and there are cars parked on the street outside.

A yellow beverage in a cocktail glass with a salted rim and a blue straw, placed on a richly patterned red tablecloth inside a restaurant.

Plate of crispy tacos topped with shredded cheese and pico de gallo, with side dips of guacamole, salsa, and sour cream. In the background, a margarita with a salted rim, lime slice, and blue straw, along with a glass of water, on a red patterned tablecloth at a restaurant.

A white square plate with fried churros and a cup of thick chocolate sauce on a wooden table. In the background, there is a colorful tablecloth, a basket with napkins, a cocktail glass with a yellow drink, and a glass of water.

A storefront with a sign reading 'Alriso Risotteria Italiana' and a lush green vine on the upper part of the building. There are cars parked in front and a person standing outside.

Outdoor cafe scene with tables set with glasses, cutlery, and menus, overlooking historic European buildings under partly cloudy sky.

A plate of salad with greens, cherry tomatoes, avocado, and what appears to be burrata cheese topped with black caviar, on a white ornate plate. In the background, there is a glass of white wine, a glass of water, a menu, and a set of silverware on a marble table outdoors.

A plate of spaghetti carbonara topped with grated cheese and herbs on an ornate white plate. In the background, there is a glass of white wine, a menu, and a fork and knife on a marble table outdoors with greenery.

Slice of tiramisu dessert on a white plate, with a dusting of cocoa powder, on a marble table outdoors. In the background, a glass of red wine, a fork, and a napkin are visible, with cars parked outside.

Storefront with signage indicating gluten-free restaurant, featuring green plants, hanging flower pots, and a reflection of buildings and parked cars in the windows.

A table set with slices of fruit and nut bread in a black basket, a small dish of spread, a glass of iced tea, and a vase with white flowers. In the background, a window shows parked cars outside.

A plate of traditional American meal featuring roast pork with a slice cut showing the inside, served with stuffing and sauerkraut, with gravy poured over the meat.

A sign for a restaurant named Alebrijes with a colorful alebrije animal illustration, advertising Mexican cuisine and bar service.

A table at a Mexican restaurant featuring tacos topped with pineapple, guacamole with a chip, cucumber and radish slices, and two cups of green salsa, with a drink containing lime and orange slices and a menu promoting Mexican beers.

A pink cocktail drink garnished with a lemon wedge and a blue and white striped paper straw, on a restaurant table with people in the background.

Final Thoughts: Prague, Czech Republic

Prague is one of those cities that manages to feel both cinematic and approachable at the same time: full of spires and castles and sweeping river views, but also layered with a variety of neighborhood vibes. For me, it landed somewhere between high expectations and quiet surprises—beautiful from every viewpoint, but most memorable in the smaller details: a hilltop garden, a quiet side street, and a fully gluten-free Czech meal in a local neighborhood.

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